Sawing away in the wrong slot is how most of these sharpeners get ruined reputations. Someone grabs a Smith’s knife sharpener and drags a dull blade through the wrong opening. Then they wonder why the edge feels worse than before.
This guide covers two Smith’s models: the PP1 Pocket Pal and the 50264 Adjustable. Both are pull through sharpeners. You draw the blade through a slot instead of moving a stone across it.
Below is the slot order that actually works, plus the angle settings and the fold out rod. Skip a step and you dull the edge instead of restoring it. Get the order right and you get a working edge in minutes.
What matters before you touch a Smith’s knife sharpener
Every Smith’s pull through sharpener splits the job into two stages. Carbide slots are the aggressive stage, built to reset a dulled or rolled edge fast. Smith’s markets that slot as the quick edge setting stage on the Pocket Pal.
Ceramic slots do the opposite job. They polish and refine an edge that already has its bevel back. On the Pocket Pal, that same ceramic stage handles serrations too.
Both models here are budget pocket sharpeners. You will often see them on a rack at the sharpener endcap at Walmart next to cheaper look alikes. The slot order matters more than which one you own.
| Feature | PP1 Pocket Pal | 50264 Adjustable |
|---|---|---|
| Angle control | Preset, not adjustable | Six settings, 14 to 24 degrees |
| Stages | Carbide, ceramic, diamond rod | Coarse, fine, fixed serrated slot |
| Best for | Pocket carry, field touch ups, hooks | Kitchen drawer use, matching a factory angle |
| Size | Pocket sized, about 3.5 inches | Larger handheld body with a non slip base |
| Skip it if | You want angle control for one knife | You need a tool small enough for the trail |
| Price | Price | Price |
The Smith’s PP1 Pocket Pal: slot order and the fold out rod
Smith’s PP1 Pocket Pal
Best for Pocket Carry
Pull through, preset angle | Carbide, ceramic, fold out diamond rod | About 3.5 inches, about 1 ounce
This packs a carbide slot, a ceramic slot, and a fold out diamond rod. It is about the size of a lighter. It clips onto a keyring or lanyard and weighs about an ounce.
Start in the carbide slot only if the edge is visibly dull or rolled. Pull the blade through toward you in one smooth motion, spine leading. Do five to ten strokes per side, then move to ceramic.
Finish with the same stroke count in the ceramic slot to clear the burr and polish the edge. The fold out rod swings out for serrations, small gut hooks, and fish hooks. It is the part owners forget exists.
Pros
- Pocket sized, about an ounce
- Clips onto a keyring or lanyard
- Fold out diamond rod covers serrations and hooks
- Three stage design: carbide, ceramic, rod
Cons
- Preset angle, not adjustable
- Will not match every kitchen blade the way an adjustable dial can
The Smith’s 50264 Adjustable: setting the angle first
Smith’s 50264 Adjustable
Best for Kitchen Drawer
Pull through, adjustable | Six angle settings, 14 to 24 degrees | Larger body, non slip base
This sharpener works differently. It has six angle settings from 14 to 24 degrees. There is a coarse slot, a fine slot, and a separate fixed slot for serrations.
Set the dial before the first stroke, not after. A factory pocket knife edge usually sits close to 20 degrees. A thin kitchen knife runs closer to 15.
Pull through the coarse slot first on a dull blade, then the fine slot to finish. Serrated blades skip the dial completely. They go straight to the fixed slot, since the adjustable slots only cut a straight edge.
Pros
- Six angle settings from 14 to 24 degrees
- Separate fixed slot for serrations
- Carbide and ceramic rods are replaceable
- Non slip base
Cons
- Larger body, less portable than the PP1
The order people get wrong
The most common mistake is starting in the ceramic slot on a genuinely dull edge. Ceramic is a finishing stage, not a repair stage. It polishes a bad edge without fixing it.
The second mistake is sawing the blade back and forth inside the slot. These sharpeners are built for a single controlled draw, spine leading. Owner discussions on the Pocket Pal repeatedly describe rougher edges from sawing instead of drawing.
The third mistake is pressing hard. More pressure does not mean a faster edge. It means metal removed unevenly, so let the preset angle and the abrasive do the work.
What a Smith’s pull through sharpener cannot do
These tools cannot reprofile an edge. If a knife was ground at 20 degrees and you want it thinner, a preset slot will not get you there. It just wears against the bevel already on the blade.
They cannot fix a chip either. A chip needs material removed evenly across the edge until the low point disappears. That takes a stone and real time, not a few pulls through a slot.
When a knife needs reprofiling, a chip repaired, or a full restoration, it is time to move past a pocket tool. Our overview of the broader lineup of sharpener types covers stones and systems built for that work.
Mistakes to skip entirely
- Using the carbide slot as a maintenance step on an edge that is already sharp. It removes more metal than a sharp edge needs, and repeated use shortens the life of the blade for no benefit.
- Forcing a serrated blade through the straight edge slots on either model. The geometry is wrong for serrations, and you will round the points. Use the diamond rod on the PP1 or the fixed slot on the 50264 instead.
- Expecting either tool to replace regular stropping between uses. A few passes on leather or denim keeps an edge working longer between full sharpening sessions.
Keeping the slots and rods working over time
The carbide and ceramic rods on the 50264 are replaceable, since they wear down with heavy use. Smith’s builds the unit so you can swap worn rods instead of replacing the whole sharpener. That keeps a single 50264 useful for years of kitchen use.
Metal filings build up in every slot after a few sessions. Wipe the carbide slot with a dry cloth when you are done, since trapped filings scratch the edge on the next pull. A quick brush out takes ten seconds and keeps every stroke consistent.
Store either sharpener somewhere dry. Moisture sitting on carbide or in the housing invites rust on the rod mounts over time, and a rusted rod cuts unevenly.
The bottom line: A Smith’s knife sharpener earns its place as a fast, portable fix, not a precision tool. Reset in carbide or coarse, finish in ceramic or fine, and use the dedicated slot or rod for serrations. Get that order right and either model does what it promises.
FAQ
How many strokes does a Smith’s knife sharpener need?
Five to ten strokes per side in the reset stage is a reasonable start for a dull blade. Follow with the same count in the finishing stage. A lightly dull edge needs fewer strokes.
Can the 50264 sharpen serrated knives?
Yes, through its separate fixed angle serrated slot. The coarse and fine slots are built for straight edges only, so a serrated blade should never go through the adjustable side.
Does the PP1 Pocket Pal work on kitchen knives?
It works on straight edge kitchen knives in a pinch. Its preset angle will not match every kitchen blade the way the 50264’s adjustable dial can. Treat the Pocket Pal as a backup for the kitchen.
Why does my knife feel duller after using a pull through sharpener?
Usually the ceramic or fine slot was used first on a genuinely dull edge. Or the blade was sawed back and forth instead of pulled through in one motion. Both mistakes leave a rougher edge than the one you started with.
Which Smith’s sharpener should I buy, the PP1 or the 50264?
Pick the PP1 for a pocket, pack, or tackle box. It is small and covers hooks and serrations in one tool. Pick the 50264 for a kitchen drawer, since the dial matches factory angles more closely.
Can these tools replace a whetstone?
No. They cannot reprofile an edge or fix a chip, and heavy use on an already sharp blade wastes metal. For a folder used daily, our guide to taking a folding blade to a stone by hand covers that freehand work, and our full library of sharpening fundamentals covers angle theory in more depth.
Can I replace the rods on my Smith’s sharpener?
On the 50264, yes. Smith’s lists the ceramic and carbide rods as replaceable, so a worn sharpener does not need full replacement. The Pocket Pal listing does not mention replacement parts, so treat it as one sealed tool.
Sources
- Smith’s Products: Pocket Pal Knife Sharpener, manufacturer product page. https://smithsproducts.com/pocket-pal-knife-sharpener/
- Smith’s Products: Adjustable and Fixed Angle Pull Through Knife Sharpener, manufacturer product page. https://smithsproducts.com/50264
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